We crossed to the west coast of Northland yesterday, and spent the night in a small settlement called Opononi. It is a seaside town famous for its golden sand beaches. Across the harbour, you can see the impressive 150-metre-high dunes that mark the entrance to Hokianga Harbour. It is also celebrated as the home of Opo, the friendly, tame dolphin who captured the hearts of the nation in the 1950s.

Footprints of Kupe

The main reason we came to Opononi was to visit the Footprints of Kupe site – “a 75-minute multisensory journey of guided storytelling – through art, taonga (cultural treasures), film, performance, digital interaction, and the splendour of Hokianga’s natural surroundings.” Kupe is believed to be a Polynesian navigator who first arrived in New Zealand around 1000 years ago, and founded the Māori nation. Sadly, when we arrived, we learned that the digital presentation had broken down that morning, and they were waiting on a repair. They were very apologetic, and offered us a full refund (at $75 each it was rather pricy). We still got to do a tour along a pathway lined with statues of Māori gods, to learn about some of their beliefs and traditions, as well as a browse in their small gallery of Māori art.

I did mention this is the quiet season – we were the only visitors there, so we did get a private tour. In fact we were the only ones expected all day. The brief tour was interesting but packed with so much information that I struggle to remember any of it. We did get some photos at least.

Tāne Mahuta

As we headed south we visited an area of Kauri forest containing the famous Tāne Mahuta, the largest tree in New Zealand, and in fact in the southern hemisphere, and the 5th largest tree in the world. At least that is what we were told, with great authority. It is around 45m tall, and contains over 500 m³ of wood. It is estimated to be between 1200 and 2500 years old! It is an awe-inspiring sight. You walk along a short, elevated walkway through lush forest to reach Tāne. There’s a small viewing area, staffed by enthusiastic people employed by the Department of Conservation to be near Tāne in all weathers and to serve as its ambassador and its protector.

Tāne Mahuta means “God of the Forest”. According to Māori mythology Tāne is the son of Ranginui the sky father and Papatuanuku the earth mother. Tāne was the child that tore his parents’ parental embrace and once done set about clothing his mother in the forest we have here today. All living creatures of the forest are regarded as Tāne’s children.

On the road

We spent a few hours getting to our next destination for the night, so no more stops except lunch in a quirky cafe in Dargaville. Though we did have to pull over for some photos when we spotted a striking building. It turned out to be a unique cafe and art space called Eutopia. Sadly closed or we would have stopped for a coffee, but even the exterior was something to behold.

This photo will give you an idea of the kind of countryside we drove through today.

Oh, and in case you are wondering, “Place of crooked fishing post” is the English translation of the word Opononi.

To read more of our adventures in Northland, New Zealand, click here.