The Treaty of Waitangi (Te Tiriti o Waitangi) is considered New Zealand’s foundational constitutional document. Signed on February 6, 1840, by British Crown representatives and over 500 Māori chiefs, it established British governance while promising to protect Māori authority over their lands, resources, and taonga (treasures). However, because the English and Māori versions of the treaty differ in wording, the rights and obligations it outlines have been heavily debated ever since. The English version states that Māori chiefs ceded sovereignty (“all the rights and powers of sovereignty”) to the British Crown, while the Māori text specifies that Māori granted the Crown a right of governance (kawanatanga) while retaining tino rangatiratanga (absolute authority and chieftainship) over their lands, villages, and treasures.

Waitangi Treaty Grounds

The main reason we came to this part of Northland was to visit the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, where the famous treaty was signed. You take a tour of the site, then watch a cultural performance. There are a couple of excellent museums on the site, as well as the house of James Busby, the first official British Resident of New Zealand. There is a pair of ceremonial wakas (canoes) named Ngātokimatawhaorua & Tawhirirangi on display. Ngātokimatawhaorua was built in 1940 to celebrate the centenary of the signing of the Treaty, and at almost 37 metres long it was (until recently overtaken) the world’s longest canoe. We did see the massive stump of a very old Kauri tree that was cut down to build the waka.

Russell

Russell is the historic former capital and first seaport of New Zealand. We drove up to Flagstaff Hill, the site of resistance by the Māori to British rule in the 1840s (they kept cutting down the flagpole, and the British kept erecting a new one) which offers impressive 360° views of the area.

We enjoyed a stroll along the waterfront, lined by historic weatherboard cottages, and one enormous Moreton Bay fig tree. We gate-crashed a wedding photoshoot – in our defence they did completely block the road.

Moreton Bay fig tree planted by the first collector of customs 1860s.

The original customs house (1860), now the local policeman lives there.

Christchurch Russell is the oldest church in New Zealand, built in 1835. We were intrigued by the cushions on every pew, embroidered with scenes of local life, flora and fauna, stitched by hand by members of the congregation.

As recommended, we had dinner at The Duke of Marlborough, New Zealand’s oldest licenced hotel. We shared a delicious platter, featuring a variety of locally caught seafood.

To read more of our adventures in Northland, New Zealand, click here.