We did pack a lot into our days in Lisbon. After leaving the Castle we enjoyed one of Lisbon’s many viewpoints and then strolled down through the historic district of Alfama. At the bottom of the hill, we stopped to sample some Ginjinha (more about that in another post) and then headed to Praça Dom Pedro IV and the Igreja de São Domingos. That’s the morning covered – stay tuned to read about the rest of the day!

Miradouro de Santa Luzia

After leaving the castle we headed to Miradouro de Santa Luzia for more stunning views over the rooftops of the Alfama district towards the modern port (complete with cruise ship). On the walls of the small 17th century church of Santa Luzia are some lovely 18th century tile panels. One tells the story of Portuguese hero Martim Moniz, who helped Afonso Henriques recapture Lisbon from the Moors in 1147. According to legend, during the siege of São Jorge Castle, Martim Moniz saw the Moors closing the castle doors. He led an attack on the doors, and sacrificed himself by lodging his own body in the doorway preventing the defenders from fully closing the door. Nearby is a statue of St. Vincent (the city’s patron saint) holding a boat with two ravens, the symbols of Lisbon.

Alfama

Alfama is the oldest neighbourhood of Lisbon, on the hillside below São Jorge Castle. Originally the sailor’s quarter dating back to the Visigoth occupation in the 6th-8th centuries, the Alfama particularly flourished during the Moorish period. Historically Alfama was situated outside of the city walls and was somewhat squalid, but it is now quite trendy. One of the few areas of Lisbon that survived the 1755 earthquake, the narrow, winding, cobbled streets are a delight to explore.

Here are just a few of the photos we took as we enjoyed a gentle ramble through Alfama.

Praça de Dom Pedro IV

Praça de Dom Pedro IV, also known as Rossio Square is the main central square of Lisbon. Originally a Roman race track, it is now a transport hub, surrounded by bars and restaurants. Rossio Station faces this square. The National Theatre of Portugal, at one end of the square, was built after the 1755 earthquake destroyed a former palace that was once the headquarters of the Inquisition. The wavy pattern in the pavement (one guide described it as “nauseating”) is another reminder of the maritime heritage of the city.

Large bronze fountains at each end of the square feature 4 mermaids. These were designed and built in France and installed in 1889.

A rather gaudy sculpture-like object is promoting an up-coming festival that celebrates magic and sustainability (apparently).

In the centre of Rossio Square sits the Column of Pedro IV of Portugal, known as “the Soldier King”. At the base of the pillar are four female figures that represent the King’s various qualities: Justice, Wisdom, Strength and Moderation. Urban legend has it that the statue is actually that of Emperor Maximilian of Mexico. He was assassinated soon after the creation of the statue, and as it was then unwanted, it was sold to Lisbon cheaply.

Igreja de São Domingos

The church of St Dominic (Igreja de São Domingos) dates back to 1241, when the foundations were laid. Once the largest church in Lisbon, it was the venue for royal weddings, state funerals and major religious ceremonies. It was badly damaged in an earthquake in 1531, and was almost totally destroyed in the great earthquake of 1755. In 1959 a fire gutted the church interior, and many precious paintings carvings & and relics were lost. It is said that 100 fire engines fought the blaze, and two firemen lost their lives. The building was restored and reopened in 1994, but the extent of the damage can still be seen in the scars on the columns, and many mutilated sculptures.

Igreja de São Domingos was the seat of the Inquisition in the 16th century. It was also here that a massacre of Jews occurred. A memorial in front of the church reads “In memory of the thousands of Jews victims of intolerance and religious fanaticism murdered in the massacre that started on April 19, 1506 in this square”.

In the years that followed the expulsion of the Jews from Spain in 1492, thousands took refuge in neighbouring Portugal. King Manuel I was more tolerant toward the Jewish community but, under pressure from Spain, made their conversion to Catholicism compulsory in 1497. On 19 April 1506. the faithful were praying for the end of the drought and plague that swept the country in the church of São Domingos when someone swore they had seen the illuminated face of Jesus on the altar. A “New Christian”, one of the converted Jews, voiced his opinion that it had been only the reflection of a candle on the crucifix. The men who had gathered for Mass grabbed the man by his hair and brought him outside the church where he was beaten to death by the crowd and his body was burnt. From that point the New Christians, who were already not trusted by the population, became the scapegoats for the drought, famine and plague. It is estimated that between 2,000 and 4,000 Jews who had been forced to convert were killed in this event which lasted for 3 days. Following the massacre, a climate of suspicion against New Christians pervaded the Kingdom of Portugal. The Portuguese Inquisition was established thirty years afterward; many families of Jewish ancestry either escaped or were banished.

Well done if you have read this far. I’m beginning to understand why we felt so exhausted at the end of each day! For the rest of the day’s activities, click here .