We had a very early start today, with breakfast at 6:30 so that we could tender onshore at 7:30am to beat the crowds – a little painful but well worth it. We spent the morning on Miyajima Island, regarded as one of the “three most scenic spots” of Japan, followed by a more somber pilgrimage to Hiroshima. A big day with a lot of emotion.

TORII GATE

One of the most iconic images of Japan is the “floating” Torii Gate at Miyajima. Torii Gates mark the entrance to Shinto shrines, and demarcate the boundary between the sacred space of the shrine and the secular world. (The last photo below was taken as we left – the early start was definitely the correct decision!) This gate marks the entrance to Itsukushima Shrine.

Itsukushima Shrine

Like the torii gate, Itsukushima Shrine (Itsukushima means “Island of Worship”) is built over water, seemingly floating in the sea during high tide. The shrine consists of multiple buildings, including a prayer hall, main hall and noh theater stage, which are connected by boardwalks and supported by pillars above the sea.

DEER

There are also wild deer on the island that wander around the same sites as the tourists. Unlike in Nara, it is forbidden to feed the deer on Miyajima in order to encourage their natural diet. However, we were warned to hold any maps carefully to ensure they don’t get nabbed – a warning apparently not heeded by everyone!

DAISHOIN

Daishoin is Miyajima’s oldest temple, established in 806. It’s one of three most important temples in Japan, believed to have the ability to ward off evil and bring good luck. You enter through an impressive carved gate, with particularly fierce guardian statues, and climb a couple of hundred steep steps. Lining the steps are spinning metal prayer wheels inscribed with Buddhist scriptures (sutras). Turning the inscriptions as you walk up is believed to have the same effect as reading them.

Daishoin is actually a complex of several temples, and sacred sites. The Henjokutsu Cave contains Buddhist icons and sand from the 88 temples of the Shikoku pilgrimage route.  For those who believe, worshipping here earns the same blessings as making the pilgrimage to all the temples on the route.

The grounds at Daishoin are filled with literally hundreds of Jizo statues. Jizo are stone statues often wearing red caps and bibs.  They depict Jizo Bosatsu, the beloved guardian deity of children, travellers, and unborn children in Japanese Buddhism, particularly miscarried, stillborn, or deceased infants. The red is believed to ward off evil, illness, and demons. Even though they represent such a sombre significance, they are often particularly cute or even amusing.

Apart from the Jizos, there are many statues, beautiful gardens, the beginnings of autumn colours in the maple trees and more.

HIROSHIMA

After lunch on board we headed to Hiroshima, a city made famous worldwide by the tragic effects of the dropping of the atom bomb on August 6, 1945. We saw the domed building that was one of the few buildings to survive, close to the epicentre, visited the Children’s Peace Monument and added the paper cranes we had made to the collection there, and then spent a sobering hour at the Hiroshima Memorial Museum.  You can read the story of the paper cranes here.