The Coral Geographer remained moored in Kobe, and we were offered a choice between day trips to Kyoto and Osaka. Since we will be spending a few days in Kyoto after the cruise, it was an easy decision for us to go to Osaka, the second largest city in Japan and home to some iconic sites. Obviously one day was never going to be enough time, but we got a good taste of this fascinating city. We visited Shitenno-ji Buddhist Temple first, then had several hours exploring the chaotic and colourful Dotonbori, an entertainment hub built along an artificial canal. Our last stop was at the Umeda Sky building, an impressive modern skyscraper with 360° views from the open-air rooftop.

Shitenno-ji Temple

Shitenno-ji (四天王寺) is one of Japan’s oldest temples and the first ever to be built by the state. It was founded in 593 by Prince Shotoku, who supported the introduction of Buddhism into Japan. Although the temple’s buildings burned down several times over the centuries, including following WWII bombing,  they were always carefully reconstructed to reflect the original 6th century design. The oldest extant buildings date to the early seventeenth century, and the stone torii gate has stood at the west entrance since 1294. The buildings of the central temple, reconstructed in the 1960s on the basis of written records and archaeological evidence, are faithful recreations of the original sixth-century structures. Of all the temples and shrines we visited, the interior at Shitenno-ji was the most stunning, but sadly we weren’t allowed to take photos inside.

Dotonbori

We were dropped off in Dotonbori and left to explore on our own. Dotonbori is an entertainment district on either side of a small canal famous for over-the-top signage and a profusion of restaurants and food outlets. The history of this area goes back to 1612 when a merchant by the name of Yasui Doton invested all of his personal capital in an ambitious local development project. Interrupted by war and Doton’s death, the project was completed by his cousins and named Dotonbori or “Doton Canal”. Osaka’s obsession with food is often summed up with the expression “kuidaore” which is often interpreted to mean “eat till you drop” but actually means to spend so much on food that you fall into financial ruin!

There are too many photos here, but it kind of reflects the craziness of the area.

HOzenji Temple

We ventured off the main drag to visit a temple called Hozenji. To get there we walked through a tiny alley called Ukiyo Koji. “Ukiyo Koji” translates to “Floating World Alley,” a nostalgic, narrow laneway that recreates Taisho-era (early 1900s) Japan with art, lanterns, and retro vibes, offering a glimpse into the historical “pleasure districts” of old Japan where Ukiyo (Floating World) culture thrived. 

At the end of the short alley you find Hozenji, a small slice of old Japan right in the middle of this otherwise chaotic shopping area. Built in 1637, Hozenji Temple pays homage to Fudo Myoo, one of five guardians of Buddhism. Traditionally, people splash the statue of Fudo Myoo with water. This is said to bring good luck. The statue is covered head to toe in moss, the result of many thousands of visitors pouring water over it.

LUNCH & so much more

Staying off the beaten path for a bit longer, it was time for lunch. Okonomiyaki is a popular pan-fried dish that consists of batter and cabbage. Selected toppings and ingredients are added which can vary greatly (anything from meat and seafood to wasabi and cheese). This variability is reflected in the dish’s name; “okonomi” literally means “to one’s liking”. The dish is available all over Japan but is particularly popular in the cities of Hiroshima and Osaka. Since we were in Osaka, it was time for our okonomiyaki. We found a little restaurant and ordered, watching the chef prepare the meals in front of us – good food and entertainment.

Umeda sky building

After some more strolling and snapping photos in Dotonbori we were collected and driven to the Umeda Sky Building, an impressive modern skyscraper with 360° views from the open-air rooftop. It’s actually 2 buildings joined by the donut shaped rooftop and a pair of suspended escalators. I expected the escalators to be a bit scary, but they were fully enclosed with a solid floor, so not scary at all. The view of Osaka from the top was impressive, but we were more impressed by the architecture of the building itself.

After a long but fun day we headed back to the ship to enjoy the evening lights of Kobe, and the colourful display on the Ferris Wheel near the port (this video is a time lapse – it wasn’t quite that frenetic!)