SHINGU

Shingu is a small seaside city in the Wakayama prefecture on the Southeastern coast of Japan. It is the gateway to the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trails and Kumano’s sacred sites. Nachi Falls is the country’s tallest waterfall with an uninterrupted drop of 133metres. Many star-crossed lovers have leaped from the top of the waterfall in the belief that they will be reborn into paradise.

We were greeted at the port by these local ladies dressed in traditional costume of the region. 

Daimon-zaka

Daimon-zaka is an impressive cobblestone staircase slope leading to Nachi waterfall, and some significant temples and shrines which form part of a longer pilgrimage (the Kumano Kodo). The path includes a stone staircase about 600 meters long with 267 stairs and is lined with centuries-old Japanese cedars (cryptomeria), cypress, camphor trees and bamboo groves. Daimon-zaka means “large gate slope” referring to a gate that once stood nearby.

It was lovely walking amongst the tall trees. There were a lot of steps, and the ground was very uneven, but we were well prepared with good shoes and hiking poles. According to my watch I climbed 33 flights of stairs today (not counting the many stairs down!). We were put to shame though, by a fellow pilgrim in traditional dress, including wooden sandals, tackling the path with ease.

RELIGIOUS HARMONY

At the top of the Diamon-zaka trail is a large site which is home to both the Shinto Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine and the Buddhist Seigantoji Temple. In fact, for most of their history the buildings were not even under separate control and functioned as one religious institution. The buildings of both the shrine and the temple are impressive, including the three-story pagoda. The shrine and temple were separated during the Meiji Period, but still occupy a shared site, and it’s not obvious to the visitor which is which. Both are dedicated to the Nachi Falls, which inspired people long before either were built.

A thousand-year-old camphor tree whose boughs beautifully spread over the shrine’s roofs is regarded as sacred. Camphor trees are revered in Japan because of their longevity, giving them an eternal, spiritual presence. 

Nachi Falls

Nachi Falls are the longest single drop waterfall in Japan at 133m, and it has long been considered a sacred site in Japan. The image of the falls, overlooked by the 3-story pagoda is iconic – if you search for images of Japan online, it won’t take long for this scene to show up.  The original pagoda burned down in 1581 amid civil unrest and wasn’t rebuilt until 1972. The thunder, spray, and sheer scale of the cascade inspired such awe and reverence that it became a place of worship and was eventually formalized as Hiro-jinja Shrine. The shrine has no worship hall, so devotees say their prayers facing the waterfall. While we were there a priest appeared and conducted some formal worship.